azerbaijan

Azerbaijan: Travel Tips for Women

Azerbaijan is 93% Muslim (majority Shia) and 90% Azeri (ethnicity). It is, however, a pretty secular culture. In Baku, the capital and the largest city in the country, you will see only a few women with covered hair. In fact, the women are pretty cosmopolitan - complete with high heels and lots of make-up. Still, I thought I would compile here a few tips for women, in particular, when traveling to Azerbaijan.

1. Travel to Azerbaijan requires a visa. You can get one in the U.S. at either the Azerbaijan embassy in Washington D.C. or in Los Angeles. From my experience, the Los Angeles embassy is better. The fee is $131 and you will need to fed ex your passport and application to them. You can get the application online.

2. Azerbaijan is 12 hours ahead of pacific daylight time so jet lag is inevitable - on both sides. I highly recommend bringing sleeping pills for at least the first night in Azerbaijan (note that many refer to the country in abbreviation as AZ).

3. In general, women shouldn't be out alone after 9pm. I heard a number of first hand accounts of women being harassed when out late at night by themselves or with other women. If you're out late with a man in the city, you're usually okay.

4. While women here do wear tight clothing, most are pretty covered up. Dress modestly. I should also add that women very much dress like women. Which is to say it is rare to see a woman dressed in jeans, a t-shirt and running shoes. I saw exactly one woman dressed like this during my entire trip and she was a young woman who said she wanted to be a computer scientist when she grew up!

5. In some places in the capital, and in most places outside of the big city that is Baku, you will encounter "Turkish toilets" aka toilets that amount to a hole in the ground. Most restrooms do not have tissue paper. So carry tissue with you everywhere. I found the bulk tissue packs you can buy at Walgreens to be life savers. Also, the best way to navigate the toilet infrastructure, I found, is to wear skirts. I know this sounds odd, but it's true. When you wear long pants you run the risk of your pants hitting the ground in some pretty dicey locales. I traveled to Azerbaijan in the winter and skirts with tights were just the ticket.

6. There are surprisingly few trash cans in restrooms. So, if you're a woman, you may need to bring your own hygiene bags. Also of note, the use of tampons is very limited in the country. You will not find tampons with applicators in pharmacies. Fyi. (BTW - if you are a man reading this, don't say I didn't warn you!)

7. Also, because the rest of the world is not as germ phobic as the U.S., it is difficult to find hand sanitizer in Azerbaijan. So bring your own. I found it very helpful when traveling outside of Baku as most restrooms had limited means for washing up.

8. If you're traveling from the U.S. you won't need a converter, but you will need an adapter for using electronic devices in Azerbaijan. South European/Middle East adapters work in Azerbaijan - even outside Baku.

9. The food is pretty heavy on the meat and fat. Even fish, when available, is usually fried. The good news, though, is fresh vegetables and fruit are plentiful. In fact, I found the produce to be very good. Now, it won't look as pretty as the cosmetically enhanced produce in U.S. grocery stores, but the flavor of the fruits and vegetables in Azerbaijan was superb.

10. There is wi-fi for internet access at most hotels, but very limited in other places - even universities. There are internet cafes that can be used to check email in most towns. Surprisingly, my Blackberry was of no use to me in Azerbaijan. Verizon charges on a per use basis in this country. Which means that you will have to pay close to $5.00 per mb to check your email using your blackberry. Not worth it! I disabled data on my phone during my trip and had it turned off the entire time I was there.

11. Many travel websites will say you can use U.S. dollars in Azerbaijan and in theory you can. But in practice, few people accept them. Also, outside of Baku, most won't accept credit cards either. My hotel in Seki said they could accept credit cards but their system was down and I ultimately had to pay in Manats. So you are better off bringing Manats (AZN) or using an ATM to withdraw Manats when in Baku. You won't be able to use ATMs in most areas outside of Baku.

12. Finally, some odd but true cultural guidelines: a. It's not appropriate to go outside with wet hair; if you walk around with wet hair it implies that you just had sex b. It's also not appropriate to put on Chapstick in public - again, it has sexual connotations c. It's unseemly to drink water from the bottle; women are expected to drink from a glass d. Women are not allowed to smoke and a woman smoking here would be a big no-no

There you have it. Some travel essentials for women. It's an interesting country and if you find yourself traveling there, I hope you find these tips useful.

Azerbaijan: Hotels

There are some reviews on Trip Advisor for these hotels, but I often find that most reviews don't have the crucial details that women travelers need - like does the place have a hair dryer so I don't need to lug mine?

Landmark Hotel - Baku This hotel has a hair dryer that is attached to the wall. The good news is that the provided hair dryer will get the job done. Even for those afflicted as I am with frizzy hair. While Baku is on the waterfront, the high winds in the winter make it dry enough to make drying your hair pretty easy. The downside is that you have to hold down a button to get the dryer to blow which can lead to serious hand cramps if you have a lot of hair like I do.

Bathroom amenities include bar soap, gel, shampoo, conditioner (though I found the conditioner to be pretty weak), and hair cap. It also has cotton swabs for your ears.

The room, however, has a terrible mirror for applying make-up. It does have a magnifying mirror for contemplating your pores, but the lighting is so bad that it doesn't make it much fun.

This hotel has a good gym. It's as state of the art as I think you can fairly expect for a developing country. It also has a pool and a 360 view of the city. You should note that the pool does have women hours - meaning, hours where only women may swim.

Finally, the laundry service here was good. I would advise getting your laundry done only in Baku. It's unclear what level of service you would get at hotels (even the best ones) outside of Baku.

Seki Saray - Seki The rooms are pretty simple, but they have much better bathroom mirrors and shallow counters so you can position yourself really close to the mirror for application of make-up. The bathrooms do have a built-in blow dryer but they are so ancient that they won't do you much good. The blow dryer is one of those ingenious designs where the hot air comes through the handle and will eventually burn your hand. I had to grip it with a towel to even use its weak air flow.

But the good and bad thing is the heat in the hotel (at least in winter) is turned up so high that when I exited the shower, I didn't have to towel off - the water instantly evaporated on my skin. Which is also to say, use the ancient device to shape your bangs and then let the room's excessive heat problem do the rest.

By excessive I mean you will sweat it's so damn hot. We're not talking comfortable mid 60s or even mid 70s. The rooms are 80s and beyond. The hotel uses an old radiator system and I learned later that is why most people have their windows open even in the dead of winter. There is no other way to control the temperature. I, being from California, had no idea and suffered one night above sheets sweltering.

Also worth noting is that the electricity goes out often in the hotel.

Further, when I asked for an iron to press a skirt, they took a long time (over an hour) to bring me one. I think this was because they were probably in deep debate over whether they should entrust it to me because I later learned (when the front desk called me in the middle of the night and out of a dead sleep to tell me) that this was the only iron the hotel owned and they needed it back to press the pants of another guest.

This hotel does not have a gym. Interestingly, the bathroom amenities did not include conditioner (only shampoo), but did include cotton swabs!

Ramada Hotel - Ganja This is an American chain so it looks pretty much like a chain hotel you'd encounter at home. The room configuration is pretty strange and the furniture is positioned fairly close together making it difficult to walk around.

The good news is that the rooms do come equipped with big ol' U.S. style hair dryers. We're talking ConAir 1200s. The downside is that for some odd reason they are plugged in behind a mirror on a wall directly behind the front door and unmovable. For this reason, it's dark and difficult to see what you're doing. There is a stand for resting the dryer, but nowhere to place your brushes and clips. There is also a wall-attached hose dryer in the bathroom should you want to use antiquated technology.

The bathroom has the full suite of soap, shampoo and conditioner - but not cotton swabs.

This hotel does have a gym. It's not as nice as the gym at the Landmark but it's serviceable. It has treadmills and free weights mostly.

These hotels are thought to be the best in their respective cities. The Landmark is nice but it's not five star. It will be interesting to see if it ups its game because a new Four Seasons is set to open in Baku soon.

So there you have it. I only stayed in three hotels, with the bulk of my stay at the Landmark Hotel. I hope you find this useful. Happy travels!

Azerbaijan

Alicia Morga Azerbaijan

This was the main question I received when I told people I was traveling to Azerbaijan. I usually replied, "It's near Turkey," but the truth is that it borders Russia, Georgia, Armenia, Iran and the Caspian Sea.

So why Azerbaijan, the Land of Fire? Well, I was invited by the U.S. State Department to share my experiences as a female entrepreneur with women around the country.

When I landed in Azerbaijan, cultural attaché Chris Jones picked me up at the airport and immediately handed me a cell phone and a large packet. I felt like I had parachuted into a scene in Mission Impossible.

He explained the schedule - I would be meeting with groups of young women, female entrepreneurs, and media throughout the country for ten days.

And with that, we were off. We started in Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan.

Alicia Morga Baku
Alicia Morga Baku Hotel

Baku can be deceiving. On the surface it looks like any major city. It's full of big expensive cars and is very secular. You won’t see many women covered up there. It even has a few bars - which foreigners mostly frequent.

When I first decided to travel to Azerbaijan I didn't know much about the country and was imagining something akin to news feeds about Afghanistan, so when I found myself in Baku I was relieved. It looked a lot like San Francisco, nestled next to the water.

Then we went on the road. I traveled to Ismayilli, Seki (pronounced Sheki), Ganja (the 2nd largest city in the country behind Baku), Shirvan, Guba, Kachmaz and then back to Baku for several more days.

When we traveled to the regions outside of Baku I begin to understand that Azerbaijan is not what it seems on the surface. It is a Muslim country that speaks Azerbaijani and is oil rich, but in the regions there is no avoiding the fact that it was once ruled by the Soviet Union and has a large uneducated populace (especially women).

In Ismayilli, a mountain town, I spoke to an eager crowd of young girls in a crumbling building with no heat in 40 degree weather.

Alicia Morga Azerbaijan merji shorbasi (lentil soup)
Alicia Morga Azerbaijan regions

In Seki, a television station invited me to tour the station and have dinner in advance of a television interview. The channel, I learned, is controlled by the state. A media specialist provided by the U.S. embassy coached me on what I could and probably should not say. That’s when I fully realized, while it’s a lovely country with great food, it’s still a dictatorship.

My schedule was jam-packed with speaking engagements and media interviews. I averaged four speaking engagements a day. I teased Chris that I was in his public speaking bootcamp.

The media interviews concerned me the most. Given that I didn't speak the language I was worried I would be understood and I know how difficult it can be to come across well in media here in the U.S. where I do speak the language. There were some hiccups but I managed them and even did a brief interview on their equivalent to Good Morning America.

Throughout the trip, though, I had a host of mixed emotions.

I found it difficult to talk about myself so much. Surprise, surprise! Perhaps everyone should be forced to tell their story several times a day for many days. The experience definitely made me see myself in a new way. At first I struggled with being myself, but the seemingly endless repeating of my story helped me to accept myself.

I learned that by being myself I could reach across cultural and language divides and connect. It was definitely easier with younger women - they were more open. But even the hard-looking older women were touched. I was connecting even when I couldn't tell from the looks on their faces. This I have to remember.

I had a translator, but sometimes it was terribly frustrating. I wanted to understand every little thing going on and I had to constantly nudge her for help. It was more difficult than I expected not understanding a word. I had to pay more attention to body language and facial expressions. I was hyper-aware. Which, of course, I'm good at but it turned up my already sensitive antennae and took tremendous energy.

I also felt pain. I could feel with every pore in my body how much women are repressed in the country - mainly by men but also by their own expectations for themselves. It’s a learned helplessness with which I am all too familiar. It triggered a deep empathy and anger in me that I could only express at night in my hotel room by crying.

It was subtle, but with every day the weight on my soul seemed to grow heavier. I know that sounds dramatic, but really, there’s no other way to describe it. Growing up I often felt like a guest in many homes and as such I never felt like I could truly be myself. And there were consequences to being myself. So an adulthood where I can more freely express myself has been a revelation.

My trip to Azerbaijan really put this into focus for me. It is a country that doesn’t have extreme poverty – no one is starving or homeless per se, but it is sapped of spirit. Meaning many people cannot be themselves or live the lives they want for themselves. This is a country where a man can punch a woman in the face with impunity, and the government jails people for criticizing the president. This suppression is evident everywhere.

It's a difficult atmosphere to describe unless you're used to being around depressed people. To make matters worse, few people smile – a remnant of Soviet dominance.

Talking to women, young and old, I learned how much they defeat themselves. They see no use in trying. There is a culture of can't - even in the face of real life examples of can.

There are successful women entrepreneurs in Azerbaijan. I was fortunate to meet many, including a woman who started the few and largest bookstores, a woman who opened a tea house for women, and even a woman who started her own bakery with another woman friend at the age of 52. Where at least one person has accomplished something, in my mind it means that more can follow - the path is forged and it's possible.

But I was frustrated to run up against mindsets that were either completely fixed and negative or unrealistically attached to Oprah-isms - dream it and it will come true - without moving to put in the work. Adding to the problem was the general fear of admitting to not knowing something and a very palpable fear of failure.

Though it's not difficult to see how that might flow from the top. Dictatorships are not exactly known for their creativity. It's hard to be creative when you're not allowed to fail. It’s easy to feel defeated when you’re surrounded by corruption.

Still I did my best to convey hope and inspire the women I met to pursue education and consider entrepreneurship.

Many of the women I met were eager to learn and welcoming. Young girls came up to me asking for pictures and easily draped their arms around me. One young girl went to hug me and stopped abruptly, catching herself and sucking in her breath like she had seen a ghost. “Is it okay to touch you?" she asked, "I know that Americans don't like to be touched." I laughed and gave her a big hug.

I was moved by the girls and women I met, and concerned for them, but I learned they were more concerned for me. The number one question I was asked at every stop and after ever speech and upon every meeting, without hyperbole, was are you married and do you have children.

Some also asked why I didn't wear make-up. For the record I do, but not as much as women there. Make-up, it seems, is essential to the main goal of snagging a man.

After my speeches older women crowded around me, grabbed my hands and very seriously advised that I go home and work on getting married. I said I would.

I already feel a bit like a freak that I'm not married and don't have children at my age, so the everyday reminder on the trip threatened to send me over the edge. But I was remarkably sanguine. I know I've been afforded an opportunity that these women are only now starting to imagine - an opportunity to forge a life of my own. Yes, getting married and having children no doubt enriches a life, but not having the choice surely diminishes it.

Going into the trip I was skeptical about what I could teach women there, but now I see even exposure to another experience of the world can make a difference. I hope I was able to make even a small one.

I’m still unpacking my trip, but overall I am glad I made the journey. It was at times uplifting and others, challenging, but I learned a lot.

I learned how to stand up and give a speech under all sorts of circumstance: when sick, hoarse, too hot, freezing, confused, in a different language. I learned that women are surprisingly similar everywhere. I learned that my fire still burns bright.